Fish Ambul Thiyal (Sour Fish Curry)

Ambul thiyal is one of Sri Lanka's most distinctive dishes: a "dry" fish curry with almost no sauce, deeply sour from goraka (dried Malabar tamarind) and heavy with black pepper rather than chilli. It was originally a way to preserve fish in a hot climate — the acidity and low moisture let it keep for days — and that heritage is exactly why it tastes so unusual and so good.

Firm, meaty fish is essential. Tuna is traditional; any dense fish that holds its shape (kingfish, bonito, even swordfish) works.

Ingredients

• 600g firm tuna steak, cut into 4cm chunks
• 6–8 pieces goraka (dried Malabar tamarind), or 2 tbsp tamarind paste as a substitute
• 1 tbsp black pepper, coarsely ground
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• 1/2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp roasted Sri Lankan curry powder
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
• 1 sprig curry leaves
• 1 piece pandan leaf (rampe)
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp salt, to taste
• 1 tbsp coconut oil

Method

1. If using goraka, soak the pieces in 1/2 cup hot water for 15 minutes, then grind or mash to a thick paste (keep the soaking water). If using tamarind paste, simply loosen it in 1/2 cup warm water.
2. In a bowl, mix the goraka paste with the black pepper, chilli powder, turmeric, curry powder, garlic, ginger and salt to make a dark, thick marinade.
3. Add the fish chunks and turn gently to coat every piece. Let them marinate for 15 minutes.
4. Transfer the fish and all the marinade to a heavy pan. Add the curry leaves, pandan, cinnamon, coconut oil and just enough of the goraka water to barely cover the base of the pan (about 1/3 cup).
5. Bring to a gentle simmer over low-medium heat, then cover and cook for 20–25 minutes. Shake the pan gently now and then rather than stirring hard, so the fish doesn't break up.
6. Uncover and cook for a final 5 minutes until almost all the liquid has gone and the fish is dark, glossy and coated in a thick, clinging paste.
7. Rest for 10 minutes. It's traditionally eaten at room temperature, and — like the old preserving method promises — it's even better the next day.