This is the secret ingredient behind so many recipes on this site. Sri Lankan roasted (dark) curry powder is different from the golden Indian-style blends: the whole spices are dry-roasted until deep brown before grinding, which gives them a nutty, smoky depth that defines the flavour of a Sri Lankan curry. Making your own takes twenty minutes, costs a fraction of the jarred stuff, and tastes incomparably better.
Make a batch, keep it in an airtight jar, and use it in the chicken curry, egg curry and beyond.
Ingredients
- 4 tbsp coriander seeds
- 2 tbsp cumin seeds
- 1 tbsp fennel seeds
- 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
- 1 tbsp raw rice (helps the grind and adds body)
- 1 sprig curry leaves
- 1 piece pandan leaf (rampe), torn, optional
- 1 cinnamon stick, broken up
- 1 tsp whole cloves
- 1 tsp green cardamom pods
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 2 dried red chillies, optional (for a hint of heat)
Method
- Heat a dry, heavy frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the coriander, cumin, fennel, fenugreek and rice.
- Dry-roast, stirring almost constantly, for 5–7 minutes. The spices will darken to a deep brown and smell toasty and nutty. Don't rush the heat — you want dark, not burnt.
- Add the curry leaves, pandan, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, peppercorns and dried chillies. Roast for another 3–4 minutes until the curry leaves are crisp and everything is fragrant.
- Tip the spices onto a plate and let them cool completely — this is important, as warm spices grind poorly and can clump.
- Grind the cooled spices to a fine powder in a spice grinder or a clean coffee grinder, in batches if needed. Crack the cardamom pods and grind the seeds too.
- Store in an airtight jar away from light. It keeps its punch for about 2–3 months.
Cook's notes
- Roast low and slow. The colour is your guide — deep brown, never black.
- Cool the spices fully before grinding for a fine, even powder that won't clog the grinder.
- Grind small and often if you can; freshly ground always beats a jar that's been open for a year.