Wambatu Moju (Sri Lankan Eggplant Pickle)

Wambatu moju (brinjal or eggplant moju) is the dish that disappears first from a Sri Lankan buffet. Fried strips of eggplant are tossed in a sweet-and-sour dressing sharpened with mustard, vinegar and chilli, along with crisp fried shallots and green chillies. The result is dark, glossy and intensely flavoured — a pickle-like relish that balances a plate of rice and curry, and one of the fixtures of the lamprais and festive table.

It takes a little patience because the eggplant is fried until deep golden and slightly chewy — that texture is essential. Salting the eggplant first draws out moisture so it fries crisp rather than soggy, and using enough oil (or deep-frying) makes all the difference.

Ingredients

• 3 medium eggplants, cut into finger-length strips
• 20 small shallots (or 2 red onions cut into wedges)
• 6 green chillies, halved lengthwise
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 1 sprig curry leaves
• 1 tsp mustard seeds, ground to a paste with a little vinegar
• 3 tbsp white vinegar
• 1 tbsp sugar (or jaggery)
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp Maldive fish flakes, optional
• Oil, for frying
• Salt, to taste

Method

1. Put the eggplant strips in a colander, toss with 1 teaspoon of salt and the turmeric, and leave for 15 minutes. Pat thoroughly dry with paper towels — this is key to crisp, non-oily moju.
2. Heat oil (about 2cm deep) in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Fry the eggplant in batches until deep golden-brown and slightly chewy, 4–5 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels.
3. In the same oil, quickly fry the shallots and green chillies for 1–2 minutes until they blister and colour. Remove and drain.
4. Meanwhile, make the dressing: mix the ground mustard, vinegar, sugar, chilli powder and Maldive fish (if using) into a smooth paste.
5. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil from the pan. Add the curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
6. Add the dressing and let it bubble for a minute until it thickens slightly and the raw vinegar smell mellows.
7. Return the fried eggplant, shallots and chillies to the pan. Toss gently but thoroughly so everything is coated in the glossy dressing. Cook for 2 minutes more.
8. Taste and balance — it should be sweet, sour, salty and hot in equal measure. Serve at room temperature. It keeps in the fridge for up to a week and tastes even better the next day.