Watalappan (Sri Lankan Coconut Custard)

Watalappan is the dessert that appears at every Sri Lankan celebration, and one taste explains why. It's a steamed custard built on jaggery — unrefined palm sugar — which gives it a deep, caramel-toffee flavour you simply can't get from white sugar. Coconut milk makes it luxuriously rich, eggs set it to a delicate wobble, and cardamom and nutmeg lift the whole thing. Kithul jaggery (from the kithul palm) is traditional and best, but any dark palm jaggery works.

Steaming gently is the key to that silky texture — too fierce a heat and the custard turns bubbly and grainy.

Ingredients

• 200g jaggery (kithul or palm), grated or finely chopped
• 3 tbsp water
• 400ml coconut milk
• 4 large eggs
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp vanilla or a pinch of ground cloves
• 2 tbsp cashew nuts, chopped (to garnish)

Method

1. Put the jaggery and water in a small pan over low heat. Warm gently, stirring, until the jaggery melts into a smooth syrup. Take off the heat and let it cool to just warm.
2. Warm the coconut milk slightly (do not boil), then stir it into the jaggery syrup.
3. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the salt, cardamom, nutmeg and vanilla until well combined but not frothy.
4. Slowly pour the warm coconut-jaggery mixture into the eggs, whisking constantly so the eggs don't scramble. Strain the mixture through a sieve for a perfectly smooth custard.
5. Pour into a heatproof dish or into 6 small ramekins. Cover tightly with foil.
6. Set up a steamer (or a large pot with a trivet and 3cm of simmering water). Place the dish in, cover, and steam over low-medium heat for 40–45 minutes, until just set with a slight wobble in the centre. A knife inserted near the edge should come out clean.
7. Toast the chopped cashews in a dry pan until golden. Cool the watalappan, chill for at least 2 hours, then scatter with cashews before serving.