Sri Lankan Fish Cutlets

Fish cutlets are the undisputed star of Sri Lankan short-eats — those savoury snacks sold in every bakery and served at every party. They're spiced fish-and-potato balls, breadcrumbed and deep-fried until crisp and golden. Making them is a bit of an assembly line, but the reward is a plate of crunchy, fiery-fragrant cutlets that disappear faster than you can fry them.

Canned or freshly cooked fish both work — tuna and mackerel are traditional. The filling is bound with mashed potato and seasoned generously with onion, ginger, chilli and a good hit of pepper. Chill the mixture before shaping so it holds together, and keep your oil at a steady medium-high so they colour evenly without burning.

Ingredients

• 250g cooked fish (tuna or mackerel), flaked (canned is fine, drained)
• 2 medium potatoes, boiled and mashed
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 1 sprig curry leaves, chopped
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 1/2 tsp chilli powder
• 1 tbsp lime juice
• 2 tbsp oil, plus more for deep-frying
• Salt, to taste
• For coating: 2 eggs, beaten; 1 1/2 cups breadcrumbs

Method

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a pan. Add the onion, green chillies, curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and cook for 4–5 minutes until soft.
2. Add the turmeric, pepper and chilli powder and stir for 30 seconds. Add the flaked fish and cook for 2–3 minutes, breaking it up.
3. Take off the heat and mix in the mashed potato, lime juice and salt. Combine well into a firm, moldable mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning — it should be well-spiced and peppery.
4. Chill the mixture for 20–30 minutes so it firms up and is easier to shape.
5. Roll the mixture into small balls, about the size of a walnut.
6. Dip each ball in the beaten egg, then roll in breadcrumbs to coat all over. For an extra-crisp shell, dip in egg and breadcrumbs a second time.
7. Heat oil for deep-frying to medium-high (about 170°C). Fry the cutlets in batches, turning, until deep golden-brown all over, 2–3 minutes per batch. Don't crowd the pan.
8. Drain on paper towels and serve warm, with a chilli sauce or ketchup for dipping.